Christmas on Madeira: why this time of year is so special

Sixteen years ago I came here for Christmas for the first time — and fell in love with the island straight away. What surprised me then still surprises me today: an island glowing with lights, in T-shirt weather, and yet our quietest time of the year.

Sixteen years ago I spent Christmas on Madeira for the first time – together with my mother; we simply wanted to escape the German winter for once. What awaited us was beyond anything I could have imagined: the whole city blossoms in lights, every street decorated with its own theme. At the Christmas market, young women dressed as the Grinch pose for photos, a band plays live music every evening – and all of this in T-shirt weather.

The lights and the big Market Night

It all starts on the evening of 1 December, when the whole city lights up. But the highlight is 23 December, the long Market Night (Noite do Mercado). Half the island comes to Funchal to shop for the holidays, as tradition has it – not a tourist attraction, but something the people of Madeira have celebrated of their own accord for generations. In the old days there were no fridges, so everything had to be bought fresh on 23 December to last through the holidays.

And so, where the tuna lay on the fish market in the morning, people sit together in the evening and sing Christmas carols. Around the Mercado dos Lavradores, half of the Old Town and city centre turns into one peaceful celebration that goes on into the early hours, with groups playing traditional music and singing their way through the streets. Free, for everyone.

What surprises me again and again: this time of year, with this weather, is low season for us. Apart from the cruise ships, there are relatively few tourists on the island.

The truth about the weather

There’s a lot of misinformation about the weather, by the way, because most reports only show an average temperature. On Madeira you can easily experience four seasons in one day. Here in the south, temperatures are usually between 18 and 24 °C. Of course it rains now and then, especially when the wind comes from the south – otherwise we wouldn’t be the green island of flowers, the island of eternal spring.

A perfect winter day with us

What does a perfect day look like for my guests? Breakfast on our terrace – it’s usually warm and bright enough. Even on the shortest day of the year, the sun rises at 8 am and doesn’t set until 6 pm – and it really is out.

Then it’s off to the island’s most beautiful hiking trails. Not the Instagram spots you see everywhere online, but the many hidden paths, above all our coastal trails. Of course we always check the weather map to see where the best hiking weather is – a little tip from me: always look for the side sheltered from the wind.

After the hike, head to one of the lovely restaurants in town or straight to the Christmas market for one of the great concerts – and of course a poncha is a must.

The best poncha, by the way, is in Câmara de Lobos, the little fishing village right next to Funchal. How to get there easily, I explain in our article Hop-on hop-off in Funchal – is it worth it?

Planning further ahead? You’ll find all the other big festivals on the island – from Carnival and the Flower Festival to the New Year’s Eve fireworks – with dates in our overview Madeira festivals 2026 & 2027. Staying until New Year? Everything about the famous fireworks is in New Year’s Eve on Madeira.

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